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  1. AKNick

    Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

    Finished the blue belly. Took a while. Three steps and two covering angles per side... then throw in the fittings. Had to add some patch material to clean up a few lines... it’s cheating but it works.
  2. AKNick

    Scale 1/3 Scale Extra 330L Build.

    FWIW, Alaska has been making it more difficult to transport hazmat over the last two years as well. Seeing that you have Turnigy/HobbyKing batteries - as of last year they wont ship LiPos to me anymore. I used to be able to cheat the system and order from the China warehouse instead of the US...
  3. AKNick

    Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

    Been taking some time to get my scale livery reference points down. Including the beacon! I was able to find the full scale version and scale it down 1:6.3 to find that a 10mm Red diffused LED is perfect. So I got some on the way. one thing I noticed... my scale lines were not lining up...
  4. AKNick

    110" TIMBER Assembly Thread

    JR America’s went under and JR\Propro was re-emerged with DeForce. They make a great system. @Snoopy1 can tell you about his recent purchase. Lots of other contenders out there. Modern computer radios are pretty amazing. The only thing to keep in mind so the the 40cc twin is a lot of them...
  5. AKNick

    Hi from the Philippines

    :welcome: From Southeast Alaska here! I bet there is some pretty nice thermal activity there! SBus/XBus is basically a data bus. You can program (programmable) servos, or use a decoder to tell it what channel you want it to be. It's like plugging a servo into an rx input that is assignable...
  6. AKNick

    110" TIMBER Assembly Thread

    Welcome to GSN John! And the Timber Club! Take some time to click through this thread, lots of valuable information!
  7. AKNick

    Yippee! What the postman brought

    Saw a post on social media of a fellow who built a twin chipmunk... much like the P-82, twin fuselage. Pretty neat. I have a soft spot for the chippy. Built a Carl Goldberg version back in the day.
  8. AKNick

    Scale RCM 1/3 Scale Champ Build

    Pretty Awesome what you've accomplished here. Quite the little engineering project :too-cool:
  9. AKNick

    Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

    Busted out the bright yellow ultracote and started to cover my fuselage. Talk about visual progress. Decided to cover it sides first, then top. The bottom will be deep blue and a bit more technical on the cuts to match the livery. The only part that was challenging was the float fittings and the...
  10. AKNick

    Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

    Epoxied the mid tail cone in place. Special care to keep it aligned with the elevators taped at neutral. Prepping for the fuselage to be covered, I found nowhere in the manual where it talks about cutting the slot for the main landing gear legs. So after some digging I found the exact...
  11. AKNick

    Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

    Hinged my rudder and elevators to their stabilizers. As mentioned before I’m using robart pinned hinges instead of CA hinges. Mainly because I like of much more resilient they are with a gas engine. Didn’t have too many pictures with the rudder because I am going to start to record video and...
  12. AKNick

    Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

    Covered the elevator and rudder counterbalances deep blue. Heat gun helps with getting around the tips. Also covered the balsa tail cone center piece. Thanks
  13. AKNick

    Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

    The tail cone consists of two vacuum molded plastic halves. They will be cut to fit, painted, and glued in place. Any heat would deform these pieces easily, so they must be painted.
  14. AKNick

    Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

    Added a piece of balsa under the lower rudder to fill in the gap and sanded it down until I was happy with it. I did sand it down more than what you see in this picture. Recovered and it sits strait like it should. feels good to get that done. Next up is covering that balsa tail cone piece...
  15. AKNick

    Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

    Frankenstein rudder is coming along. It’s pointing the way it should which makes me happy. Bit of a gap at the bottom which I may add more balsa somewhere. My off color filler I just decided to dust some rattle can over to mask the dark line a bit.
  16. AKNick

    Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

    I really need some balsa filler that matches.... Used a darker filler and I'm afraid it's going to show up super bad through the bright yellow ultracote... even considering priming the rudder now. No pic at the moment.
  17. AKNick

    Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

    Covered the horizontal stab. This took a little extra thought for me. The manual notes that you may need to make a relief slot in the HS9 for the rudder control rod. I had to make a pretty significant one. Since I feel like all these notches were compromising its structural integrity I decided...
  18. AKNick

    Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

    touché, I’d trade you in a heart beat ha ha. You make balsa work look easy! Ok, off to bed for me! 4am is almost here... yikes
  19. AKNick

    Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

    Whelp I literally had to crush and break my rudder, add a slap of light balsa to it and power sand it down.... I just need to attempt to make it look pretty again. What a pain. Franken-Rudder needs a make over. The pointy end now is correct-ish. Probably would have been easier to hack the lower...
  20. AKNick

    Need help with Yak build

    Your RCEXL Kill Switch 2.0 uses a separate battery for the ignition module power. There should be 4 wires. LED, Black (To your Receiver), Red Female connector (Battery Input), and a Red Male connector (connects to the Red Power input for your CDI). The black wire goes into an open channel...
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